8 Strand End-to End Splice Class 2

 

8-Strand End For End Splice
Class 2

Class 2 8-strand ropes are made in whole or in part from any of the following high modulus fibers: Dyneema®, Vectran®, Technora®, and PBO®.

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Getting Started

Tools Required: A splicing fid or marlinspike, sharp knife or scissors, plastic or masking tape, marking pen, light strong string.

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STEP 1 . . . Getting Started

Lay ropes out and count 30 picks or crowns from end of both ropes. Tie string or tape securely at these points.

STEP 2 . . . Marking

Holding the end of the rope, note the pairs of strands going to the left. Mark these pairs. Mark the strands up to the string and continue to mark the strands for five (5) or more picks beyond the strings.

STEP 3 . . . Separating & Taping

Remove tape from the end. Start unlaying strands in their respective pairs. It is important to keep them together. After they are separated into pairs up to the string, untwist the pairs. Tape the ends of the pairs together with a taper as shown.

 

 

 

Lay out ropes as shown.

 

STEP 4

It is important that the nest steps of the procedure be followed carefully.

Marked L {1} Strands go between Marked R {1} Strands
Unmarked R {2} Strands go between Unmarked L {2} Strands
Unmarked L {3} Strands go between Unmarked R {3} Strands
Marked R {4} Strands go between Marked L {4} Strands

STEP 5

After the initial step has been completed, you should have something that looks like the drawing below. Marry the ropes as shown in Step 6. This part is preferably a two-person job. Cut the string that you previously tied at the splicing points of both ropes.

STEP 6

Keep the ropes together snuggly. Tie a piece of string tightly around the splicing point as shown below.

Start your splice. A marked pair under an unmarked pair of strands. Now you can follow the same procedure as the eye splice. But we suggest that you complete one (1) full tuck in one direction and then do a full tuck on the other side of the marriage. Pull everything tight before proceeding.

STEP 7

Complete splicing in both directions so that each side is finished off as per strand reduction sequence (steps 7-10) of the eye splice procedure.

8 Strand Tuck Splice Class 1

8-Strand Tuck Splice
Class 1

Class 1 8-strand ropes are made in whole or in part from any of the following high modulus fibers: olefin, polyester, or nylon.

The eye splice is used to place a permanent loop in the end of a rope, generally for attachment purposes to a fixed point. An eye is also used to form the rope around a thimble, which is used to protect the rope, especially when it is to be attached to a shackle, chain or wire rope.

This splice is in accordance with Cordage Institute instructions for use in "Standard Test Methods for Fiber Rope" STM 6/80. This provides for the required strength retention for 8-strand (plaited) synthetic fiber rope as given in the Cordage institute Rope Specifications.

Getting Started

Plaited rope is no more difficult to splice than 3-strand. It is made of 8-strands grouped in 4 pairs. 2 of these pairs turn to the left and 2 to the right. The illustrations show the 2 pairs turning to the left in white and the 2 pairs turning to the right in gray. They will be referred to as the "white" and "gray" pairs. Note: The gray pairs are diametrically opposite one another but at a 90° angle to the white pairs and vice-versa.

Tools Required: A splicing fid or marlinspike, sharp knife or scissors, plastic or masking tape, marking pen, 10-inches of twine.

Eye Size: The size of the eye is determined by bending the bitter end of the rope back over itself for a distance equal to the desired length of the eye plus a length of 10 pics (crowns).

Preparation: If the rope which you are about to splice is all of one color, mark those pairs which turn to the right so they will conform with the gray pairs in the illustrations. Count back a distance of 20 pics from the end and tie a string securely around the rope so it passes directly over the center of both pairs of gray strands. Place the knot so that it is directly on top of one of these pairs. It is important that this be tied securely to prevent slipping. Now, unlay the pairs of strands back to the string. Making sure not to mix, or twist them, tape the ends of the pairs together as shown in Figure A.

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STEP 1

Hold and lay the rope so that the pairs of white strands are on top and bottom with a knot to the right as you look toward the end.

STEP 2

Bend the rope over to the desired eye in such a way as to keep the knot inside the loop as shown in Figure A

STEP 3

Using the fid to make clearance and starting with the gray pairs, tuck them under the diametrically opposite white pairs as shown in Figure A. Make sure you do not disturb the lay of the pairs. Do not twist them so that the individual strands cross over one another in the pair.

STEP 4

Now turn eye over, again using the fid to make clearance, tuck the white pairs under the diametrically opposite gray pairs as shown in Figure B. Note that in Figure B the splice is turned over from Figure A. The white pairs to be tucked should follow the white pairs of the standing part and the gray to be tucked should follow the gray pairs of the standing part. The ends in the drawing have been numbered to help show their position as the tucks progress. Remember, rope splicing can be a claming process if you take your time.

STEP 5

Now you have your eye with the first full tuck complete (a full tuck means inserting all 4 pairs); pull all 4 ends down firmly. Starting with the gray pairs, using the fid to separate, take another full tuck. By starting with the gray pairs you avoid having to go under 2 pairs at once. Your splice should now look like Figure C, (which now lays on the same side as Figure A). From here on, you should have no difficulty completing the rope splicing.

STEP 6

Now starting with the gray pairs, take at least one more full tuck. With a very soft rope, it may be necessary to take a 4th or 5th full tuck.

STEP 7

Having completed the 3rd tuck (4th or 5th if necessary) select the strand closest to the eye in each pair. Tape this strand close to where it emerges from the tuck and then cut off as shown in Figure D.

STEP 8

Now splice the remaining single strands just as before for another full tuck. The splice should now appear as shown in Figure E, which will lay on the opposite side as shown in Figure D.

STEP 9

Tape first and then cut off the 4 single stands as shown in Figure F. The 8 ends may be heated and fused so they will not fray: however, take great caution to be certain that you fuse on the ends and do not damage the strands.

STEP 10

A more professional appearance may be achieved by cutting the ends off flush and then taping or whipping the entire splice.

8 Strand Tuck Splice Class 2

8-Strand Tuck Splice
Class 2

Class 2 8-strand ropes are made in whole or in part from any of the following high modulus fibers: Dyneema®, Vectran®, Technora®, and PBO®.

The eye splice is used to place a permanent loop in the end of a rope, generally for attachment purposes to a fixed point. An eye is also used to form the rope around a thimble, which is used to protect the rope, especially when it is to be attached to a shackle, chain or wire rope.

This splice is in accordance with Cordage Institute instructions for use in "Standard Test Methods for Fiber Rope" STM 6/80. This provides for the required strength retention for 8-strand (plaited) synthetic fiber rope as given in the Cordage institute Rope Specifications.

Getting Started

Plaited rope is no more difficult to splice than 3-strand. It is made of 8-strands grouped in 4 pairs. 2 of these pairs turn to the left and 2 to the right. The illustrations show the 2 pairs turning to the left in white and the 2 pairs turning to the right in gray. They will be referred to as the "white" and "gray" pairs. Note: The gray pairs are diametrically opposite one another but at a 90° angle to the white pairs and vice-versa.

Tools Required: A splicing fid or marlinspike, sharp knife or scissors, plastic or masking tape, marking pen, 10-inches of twine.

Eye Size: The size of the eye is determined by bending the bitter end of the rope back over itself for a distance equal to the desired length of the eye plus a length of 30 pics (crowns).

Preparation: If the rope which you are about to splice is all of one color, mark those pairs which turn to the right so they will conform with the gray pairs in the illustrations. Count back a distance of 30 pics from the end and tie a string securely around the rope so it passes directly over the center of both pairs of gray strands. Place the knot so that it is directly on top of one of these pairs. It is important that this be tied securely to prevent slipping. Now, unlay the pairs of strands back to the string. Making sure not to mix, or twist them, tape the ends of the pairs together as shown in Figure A.

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STEP 1

Hold and lay the rope so that the pairs of white strands are on top and bottom with a knot to the right as you look toward the end.

STEP 2

Bend the rope over to the desired eye in such a way as to keep the knot inside the loop as shown in Figure A

STEP 3

Using the fid to make clearance and starting with the gray pairs, tuck them under the diametrically opposite white pairs as shown in Figure A. Make sure you do not disturb the lay of the pairs. Do not twist them so that the individual strands cross over one another in the pair.

STEP 4

Now turn eye over, again using the fid to make clearance, tuck the white pairs under the diametrically opposite gray pairs as shown in Figure B. Note that in Figure B the splice is turned over from Figure A. The white pairs to be tucked should follow the white pairs of the standing part and the gray to be tucked should follow the gray piars of the standing part. The ends in the drawing have been numbered to help show their position as the tucks progress. Remember, rope splicing can be a claming process if you take your time.

 

STEP 5

Now you have your eye with the first full tuck complete (a full tuck means inserting all 4 pairs); pull all 4 ends down firmly. Starting with the gray pairs, using the fid to separate, take another full tuck. By starting with the gray pairs you avoid having to go under 2 pairs at once. Your splice should now look like Figure C, (which now lays on the same side as Figure A). From here on, you should have no difficulty completing the rope splicing.

STEP 6

Now starting with the gray pairs, make four more full tucks with each pair of strands.

STEP 7

Having completed 6 full tucks for each pair of strands, select the strand in each pair that is closest to the eye and tape it where it emerges from the tuck. Then cut off the taped strands as shown in Figure D.

STEP 8

Now splice the remaining single strands just as before for another three full tucks. The splice should now appear as shown in Figure E, which will lay on the opposite side as shown in Figure D. Each single strand should now have three full tucks.

STEP 9

The tapering process continues by reducing the volume of each remaining strand by half (count the number of yarns that compromise each strand and divide as evenly as possible). Select the divided half of each of the four strand yarns.

STEP 10

With the remaining four half-volume single strands, perform three full tucks. Tape the strands after they have been tucked and cut them off as done with previous strands. 

Core-to-Core Eye Splice

Core-To-Core Eye Splice

Machovec is proud to bring you these rope splicing instructions. Eye splicing a rope is one of the most asked for procedures. Having a permanently fixed loop (eye splice) on a rope end removes the need to tie and then untie a knot each time you wish to use it. Rope splicing is a very strong method of fixing a loop eye; as the rope is pulled tighter so the spliced strands become more and more squeezed and locked into place. Rope splicing removes the worry of a knot becoming undone and a spliced eye is less bulky. You can buy 3-strand, 8-strand or 12-strand rope with an eye already spliced in or you you can make your own by following these instructions for eye splicing a rope.

STEP 1 - Mark Measurements

Place a single wrap of tape on the end of the rope, measure off 3 fid lengths from the end and make a mark on the cover. This is mark "A". Form the eye and make a second mark opposite the first. This is mark "B". "A" to "B" = eye size. Tie a slip knot approximately 10 fid lengths down from mark "B".

STEP 2 - Extract & Mark Core

Extract the core at mark "B" by bending rope sharply and carefully spreading the cover strand to expose the core. Then pry the core braid out using the pointed end of the fid.

Pace a single wrap of tape on the end of the core and then, while holding exposed core, slide the cover back as far as possible towards the knot. Then smooth the cover back over the core to the point of extraction. Smooth cover again until all slack is removed and mark the core where it comes out of the cover. This is mark "0". Again, slide the cover back towards the knot and measure one short fid section towards the knot from mark "0" and mark the core. This is mark "1". Measure one more short fid from mark "1", and this is mark "2". Measure 4 fid lengths towards the knot from mark "2" and mark the core. This is mark "3".

STEP 3 - Insert Core into Cover

Attach the fid to the end of the core. Insert the core into the cover at mark "A" around the radius of the eye and out of the cover at mark "B". The two sections of the core exiting from the cover at mark "B" should pass through the same hole between the cover strands.

Pull the core through the cover until mark "1" on the core is aligned with mark "A" on the cover. Hold mark "1" and mark "A" together and smooth out the cover from mark "A" to mark "B" to remove all of the slack in the cover. After removing all of the cover slack, mark the core tail where it exits the cover at mark "B". This is mark "4".

STEP 4 - Bury Tails

With the fid still attached to the end of the core, insert the core tail into the core at mark "2" and out at mark "3". Pull the core tail through until mark "4" is aligned with mark "2". Pull out sufficient core tail from mark "3" and remove the fid.

STEP 5 - Tapering the Core Tail

When tapering the core, the distance of full body core should be equal to 1/3 the distance from mark 4 to the end of the core, and the taper length should 2/3 the distance from mark 4 to the end of the core. When tapering take the distance to taper and divide that number by the number of strands in the core. (Example: 28" taper length divided by 12 strands in the core = 2.333") If you cut one strand at every increment of this number (Example: 2.33"), you will have a nice smooth taper.

Pull out one strand for every taper increment beginning at the full taper length. When all the ends habe been pulled, cut and remove all of the strands that have been pulled out.

NOTE: When cutting the strands while tapering, do not unbraid the core, leave it braided if possible.

When the taper is finished, hold the core at mark "2" and smooth the core back to bury the section that was just tapered.

STEP 6 - Bury the Core-to-Core Splice

Secure the slip knot to a fixed anchor point. Bury the exposed core, and 6 inches of the cover tail by:

1. Holding the core at the point where marks "2" and "4" coincide, place tension on the rope and smooth out the cover back over the core from the slip knot towards the eye.
2. As the cover approaches the point on the core where marks "2" and "4" coincide, it may be necessary to alternately pull some of the core back out of the cover. Smooth the cover over the exposed core in order to get the cover marks "A" and "B" to be side by side as shown in figure below.
3. After getting marks "A" and "B" side by side, measure back from the neck of the splice 6 inches towards the body and the 6 inch mark.
4. Try removing all the slack from the rope and eye, then bunch the slack up within the neck of the splice and the 6 inch mark.
5. Before burying the cover tail taper approximately 8 to 10 inches of cover, and tape tightly.
6. Attach the cover tail to a very small fid, and proceed to bury the cover tail. Enter at the neck of the splice and exit at the 6 inch mark. NOTE: Make sure not to snag any of the core fibers while burying the cover tail.
7. After pulling the fid clear from the 6 inch mark, remove the fid and proceed to work the rope until the entire cover tail is buried. NOTE: The cover tail should be buried so that mark "B" is buried at least one inch further than the neck of the splice.
8. When cover tail is buried completely, mark cover where it exits the 6 inch mark. Pull cover tail tightly and cut at mark. Smooth slack so the cover tail pulls back into the splice.

STEP 7 - Finishing

After the exposed core, and cover tail have been buried use nylon whipping thread, cross stitch and whip the portion of the splice where the cover tail is buried to prevent any slippage. Whip a distance equal to 1-1/2 times the rope diameter, beginning at the throat of the splice.

NOTE: It may not be possible to bury the cover tail for every rope. If it is not possible then cross stitch and whip the cover tail to the outside of the rope after burying the core. Whip a distance equal to 1-1/2 times the rope diameter, beginning at the throat of the splice. Using vinyl tape (NO MASKING TAPE), tape the end of the cover tail to the body of the rope, than slide the appropriate size shrink tube over the splice and secure.

Back Splice

 Double Braid Back Splice

Machovec is proud to bring you these rope splicing instructions. Eye splicing a rope is one of the most asked for procedures. Having a permanently fixed loop (eye splice) on a rope end removes the need to tie and then untie a knot each time you wish to use it. Rope splicing is a very strong method of fixing a loop eye; as the rope is pulled tighter so the spliced strands become more and more squeezed and locked into place. Rope splicing removes the worry of a knot becoming undone and a spliced eye is less bulky. You can buy 3-strand, 8-strand or 12-strand rope with an eye already spliced in or you you can make your own by following these instructions for eye splicing a rope.

STEP 1

Tie a slip knot about 5 fid lengths from the end of the rope. Measure back 1 short fid section from the end and mark the cover.

STEP 2

Extract core at mark on cover as shown in step two of the eye splice instructions. Mark core where it comes out of the cover. Pull more core out of the cover and make a mark 1/2 of a short fid section back from mark "1", this is mark "2". Mark the core again one short fid section back from mark "2". This is mark "3".

STEP 3

Insert the cover tail into core at mark "2" and out at mark "3". Cut cover tail on 45° taper. Hold core tail so that "2" sungs up to extraction point marked on the cover and smooth from "2" to "3" to bury cover tail.

STEP 4

Smooth cover from slip knot to splice to bury the exposed core. The "eye" will invert and bury, leaving the core tail to be cut as shown.

Untie slip knot and continue to smooth, eliminating all cover slack. Remnants of core tail will disappear. Roll in hands to round.

End for End Splice

Double Braid End-For-End Splice

Machovec is proud to bring you these rope splicing instructions. Eye splicing a rope is one of the most asked for procedures. Having a permanently fixed loop (eye splice) on a rope end removes the need to tie and then untie a knot each time you wish to use it. Rope splicing is a very strong method of fixing a loop eye; as the rope is pulled tighter so the spliced strands become more and more squeezed and locked into place. Rope splicing removes the worry of a knot becoming undone and a spliced eye is less bulky. You can buy 3-strand, 8-strand or 12-strand rope with an eye already spliced in or you you can make your own by following these instructions for eye splicing a rope.

STEP 1 - Mark & Extract

Mark the two ends in the same manner as step 1 of the Double Braid Eye Splice directions. (Use 1 short fid length as the measurement from "A" to "B" to replace the "eye size") Tie slip knots on each end as per previous directions. Extract and mark cores per step 2 of the eye splice directions.

STEP 2 - Insert Cover & Taper

Attach the fid to cover tail 1 and insert into core 2. Repeat with cover tail 2 and core 1. Cut and remove strands per step 4 in eye splice instructions.

STEP 3 - Insert Core into Cover

Insert core tail 1 into cover tail 2 at "C", per step 5 in eye splice directions. Repeat with core tail 2 into cover tail 1.

STEP 4 - Tighten Crossover & Bury Tails

Taper the core tails as per step 6 on eye splice instructions. Hold the rope at the crossover and smooth down each side to bury tails.

STEP 5 - Bury the Crossover

To bury the crossover points, use the directions in step 7 of the eye splice instructions. Some slack may develop between points "A" and "B", the eye portion of the splice. Smooth the slack from "A" toward "B" and sharply yank "A" away from "B". Stitch and whip each end at mark "B" and seize the crossover area.

*Constant diameter splices, which reduce the diameter of the crossover area to approximate the ropes actual diameter, will significantly reduce strength performance.

Eye Splice

Double Braid Eye Splice

Machovec is proud to bring you these rope splicing instructions. Eye splicing a rope is one of the most asked for procedures. Having a permanently fixed loop (eye splice) on a rope end removes the need to tie and then untie a knot each time you wish to use it. Rope splicing is a very strong method of fixing a loop eye; as the rope is pulled tighter so the spliced strands become more and more squeezed and locked into place. Rope splicing removes the worry of a knot becoming undone and a spliced eye is less bulky. You can buy 3-strand, 8-strand or 12-strand rope with an eye already spliced in or you you can make your own by following these instructions for eye splicing a rope.

STEP 1

• From the end of the rope, measure back 1 full fid length , mark this "A".
• Using mark "A" as a reference, form the desired size eye and make mark "B" on the rope directly opposite to mark "A".
• From mark "B", measure one long fid section (down the body of the rope) and make mark "D".
• From mark "D" measure down the rope approximately 5 full fid lengths and tie a slip knot or figure 8 knot in the rope.
• From mark "A" count 8 consecutive left or right strands toward the end of the rope and make a heavy mark completely around the rope. This is mark "C".
• From mark "C" count 5 consecutive left or right strands toward the end of the rope and mark the 5th left and right pair. Continue counting and marking in this 5:4 sequence to the end of the rope.

STEP 2

Bend the rope sharply at mark "B" and carefully spread the cover strands to expose the core. Pry the core braid out from the cover. Use care to avoid pulling any of the cover strands. Pull the end of the core completely out of the cover.

Tightly tape the end of both the cover and the core braids. Holding the exposed core, slide the cover braid back to the knot. Then hold the knot and slide the slack cover back down the core in the direction of the end of the rope until all of the slack has been removed. Mark the core at the point where it exits from the cover. This is mark "1" below.

Once again, slide the cover toward the knot. Measure one short fid length from mark "1", toward the knot and make two marks that go completely around the core. This is mark "2".

From mark "2", measure one full fid length plus a short fid length toward the knot and make three marks completely around the core. This is mark "3" below.

STEP 3

Using masking tape place two wraps of tape around the bitter end of the cover. Taper this by cutting the end at a 45° angle. Attach the fid hoot through the cover and tape the tapered point to the fid as shown below. Insert the fid into the hollow core at mark "2" and out at mark "3". When exiting or entering the braid with the fid, always go between strands.

Pull the fid with cover tail through the core until mark "A" on the cover is exposed at mark "3" on the core. (below) Remove the fid.

STEP 4

Remove the tape from the end of the cover. Cut and remove the marked strand pairs, starting at the end of the cover and working back to mark "C".

Pull cover back out of core at mark "2" until mark "C" on the cover is aligned with mark "2" on the core. To prevent the cover tail from disappearing inside the core, tie a loose overhand knot in the end of the cover. Vise grips or a long piece of tape may also be attached to the cover tail to keep it in place.

STEP 5

Attach the fid to core tail using the procedure described above. Insert the fid into the cover at mark "C" and out at mark "D". Pull core tail through at mark "D" until all the slack has been removed. Remove the fid from core tail.

NOTES:

1. The rope may be extremely tight where the fid is traveling between marks "C" and "D". To create more space in this area, grasp the core as it exits the cover at point "B" and pull extra core out of the rope. This will cause the cover to "pucker" and give you some extra space.
2. If the distance between "C" and "D" is longer than the length of the fid, hold the fid in place by squeezing it through the cover braid. Slide the cover slack back from the fid to mark "C" to draw the core tail into the cover. Then continue working the fid through the cover to mark "D". Repeat as necessary.
3. Avoid snagging the core with the tip of the fid when it is passing through the cover in the vicinity of mark "B". To check if the core has been snagged, pull on the exposed core where it exits from the cover at mark "B". If the core moves freely, it's OK to proceed. If the core appears to be stuck, pull the fid back until the core is no longer snagged and continue.

STEP 6

The crossover is the point where mark "C" on the cover and mark "2" on the core meet. To tighten, hold the rope at the crossover point and alternately pull on the free ends of the cover and core. Continue this process until the crossover is approximately the same diameter as the rope.

To bury the cover tail, untie the lose knot (or remove the tape or vise grips used in step 4). Hold the rope at the crossover and smooth the core toward the cover tail, which will disappear.

To bury the core tail, hold the crossover and smooth out the slack in the cover braid from the crossover down to mark "D". Repeat this process several times to remove all cover slack. Most of the core will disappear, however, some of the core tail will still remain at mark "D" after this process. Mark the core tail where it exits from the cover at mark "D". Then mark the core tail at mark "B" by inserting the marking pen into the opening at mark "B".

Pull out the core tail at mark "D" until the mark made at "B" appears. Cut off the excess core tail at the first mark (the one nearest the end of the core) and unbraid the core tail back to the second mark. Fan out the strands. Cut the strands at a 45° angle starting at a point about half way back from the end.

Again, hold the rope at the crossover and smooth the cover braid from the crossover toward mark "D". The exposed core will disappear completely inside the cover.

STEP 7

Score the knot tied in the body of the rope to a solid anchor point. Since a good deal of tension may be placed on the rope when burying the splice, the anchor point should be very sturdy.

The slack in the cover braid between the knot and mark "B" will be used to bury the exposed core, crossover and cover down to mark "A" to produce the desired size eye. This is accomplished by holding the rope at the top of eye and sliding the cover slack back from the knot towards the splice. Milk the cover from the crossover around the radius of the eye to the throat at "B" and pull that leg sharply with a spike to help seat the splice. Flex and/or hammer the splice section to loosen the fibers.

Seize or cross-stitch the eye to finish the splice. Refer to the diagrams at the top of this page.

NOTE: If insufficient tension is placed on the rope while making up the slack, the crossover may tend to bunch up. If this happens, slide the cover slack back toward the knot until the crossover is the proper size. (top image above) Then repeat the milking procedure. (bottom image, above)